(Philippines) - Travel to Palawan

Palawan is an island province of the Philippines. The provincial capital is Puerto Princesa and it is the largest province in terms of land area. It is considered as the last frontier of the Philippines.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

 Climate

The weather in Palawan is at its best from late February to about mid May. This is when the oceans are calmest and visibility for snorkeling and diving is best. Tubbataha dive trips only run during this period. Very few typhoons cross Palawan due to it lower latitude. The monsoons bring most of the rain to Palawan and they can develop very quickly, unleashing torrential downpours. The south west monsoon, "habagat", is from late May to October. The north east monsoon, "amihan", is from November to late February. The weather is always hot and humid. Wear the lightest possible cotton clothes to beat the heat. I recommend shorts, sleeveless shirt and sandals – no shoes and socks. Remember to always bring your hat, umbrella, insect repellant, sun-block and sunglasses.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Central and Northern Palawan

Puerto Princesa City -  Puerto Princesa City has a population of about 200,000 and is the Capital of Palawan. Puerto Princesa City and the Underground River are the most popular Palawan destinations for Filipinos. This is partly because of the large number of discount flights coming into the city every day, plus the relatively cheap accommodation available for large family groups with tight budgets. The typical Puerto Princesa two-night-three-day dash includes a one day snorkeling tour of Honda Bay, usually with pickup straight from the airport (need an early flight for this), a day trip to the Underground River on day 2 and a Puerto Princesa city tour on day 3, ending just before the late afternoon departure back to Manila.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

There are 9+ daily flights into and out of Puerto Princesa. The route is served by all of the major airlines with Cebu Pacific having the most flights. Although the majority of flights are to Manila, there are some to Cebu, Coron (Busuanga) and Boracay (Caticlan).

The Underground River at Sabang - The road from Puerto Princesa City to the Underground River in Sabang is almost completely concreted now and it takes less than two hours to travel the 80 km. The bus or jeepney will take up to three hours because it will continually stop to pick up passengers and cargo. Sabang is the village from where the boats ferry the tourists to the underground river, about 15 minutes away. If you can fit it into your itinerary, consider spending at least a night in Sabang. There is plenty of accommodation there to choose from. The beach is nice for swimming but there is a strong undertow sometimes. Also try to fit in the 1 hour mangrove tour.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Port Barton (in the Municipality of San Vicente) - Not as popular as El Nido or the Underground River, but one of my favorite places in the Philippines. The main activity there is island hopping, beach lazing and snorkeling. The islands in the vicinity of Port Barton are being newly developed into high end tourist resorts, but the impact of them has yet to affect the town of Port Barton. The road to Port Barton is now passable all year round with the very worst it having been cemented. During the typhoon season it is still recommended that your van or car be a 4 wheel drive. Port Barton is only a few hours from Sabang by boat and this is the preferred method of traveling between the two towns during the peak tourist season between December and May. Getting from Sabang to Port Barton is more complicated by road as there is no direct road linking them.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Also consider a night or two at Coconut Garden Island Resort on Cacnipa Island, just a short boat ride from Port Barton town.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Taytay - You will pass through Taytay on your way to El Nido when traveling by road. Taytay was once the capital of Palawan and is most famous for its 17th century Spanish garrison, Fort Isabel. Taytay is rarely on anyone's itinerary because the place is not well promoted. I like Taytay and go there often.. Tourism infrastructure is not as well oiled as in other major Palawan destinations. Don't let that put you off. There is plenty here to beguile the intrepid backpacker - and me also. Island hopping and snorkeling are the main activities around Taytay:  bird watching at Lake Manguao (also called Lake Danao), the largest lake on Palawan, dolphin watching at Malampaya Sound and swimming in the refreshing Canique Water Fall. The best thing about Taytay is that there are very few tourists here, especially since the nearby Club Noah ceased operations recently.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

El Nido - El Nido is located near the northern tip of Palawan and is a very popular island hopping destination and famous for its breathtaking seascapes. The high cost of flying into El Nido or the long trip from Puerto Princesa keeps many Filipinos away. ITI, a private charter airline, has 3 flights a day into the privately owned airstrip at El Nido but the first preferences for seats go to patrons of the high cost island resorts of Lagen and Miniloc. During the peak season, SEAIR also has several flights a week into El Nido, but I am told that they have been known to cancel flights at the last moment if there are not enough passengers. Daily buses and vans go from Puerto Princesa City to El Nido and the trip can take between 7 and 9 hours, depending on weather conditions. By far the best way to get to El Nido is by boat from Sabang or Port Barton. There are daily schedules from December to May. Regular boats to El Nido also leave from Coron.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

There is a common misconception, especially amongst Filipinos, that El Nido is a very expensive destination. What is not realized is that the island resorts can be very expensive, but accommodation in El Nido town is no more expensive than that of Puerto Princesa City, although it may be difficult to get cheap accommodation for a large family group.

Calamian group of islands

This group of islands is part of the Province of Palawan and is located above the main Island of Palawan. The larger islands are Busuanga, Culion, and Coron islands. There are also some 95 lesser coral isles and islets.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Coron - The town of Coron (not to be confused with the island of Coron) is on the island of Busuanga and is the principal city - population about 40,000. It is about 300km SW of Manila. There are no sandy beaches in Coron town so you would need to stay on one of the islands to get the “beach” experience. Until recently, Coron was mainly a destination for sea wreck scuba divers who dive on the many sunken World War 2 Japanese wrecks.  Because there are now four low cost fights into Coron each day, it has also become a popular destination for Filipinos, expats and Asian tourists who want to do some island hopping, snorkeling or kayaking but have only a few days to spare.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Southern Palawan

Apart from possibly a day trip to Estrella Falls, I would not recommend Southern Palawan unless you have lots of time on your hands and are prepared to travel a long way over some bad roads. I have toured Southern Palawan twice in my 4 wheel drive Suzuki. The first time was to Quezon and Brooke’s Point via the east coast road. That was in June 2009.  On the second trip, which was on the Easter weekend in April 2010,I traveled via the west coast road, passing through Rizal and returning via the east coast road via Bataraza. Infrastructure for tourism in South Palawan is poor and it’s difficult to get information about places to go, road conditions, etc. It would probably be much more difficult without you own transport. South Palawan is probably for the more adventurous tourists, but the west coast circuit is also popular with 4x4 drivers and trail bike riders. The traveling distances for both of my trips was about 550km.

Buses, jeeps and vans leave regularly from the San Jose terminal in Puerto Princesa going to Quezon and Brooke’s point. There are connecting jeepney services that can take you anywhere in Palawan.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Estrella Falls, Narra - The Estrella Falls is a popular destination for locals and Filipino family groups visiting Puerto Princesa and can be an ideal picnic outing day trip. There are huts for shelter and BBQ facilities for cooking your own food. The falls are great to swim in and both adults and children should have a fun day in and around the water. Without local knowledge, it may be difficult to go the falls by public transport because it is about 8km from the main road. Best way to do this trip would be to hire a van and driver and do it as a day trip. The van can accommodate up to 12 people and the price is P3,900 (fixed price) which includes all costs. Take all of the food and drinks you need. Perhaps purchase it from one of the Puerto Princesa markets on the way. Grill your food at the falls and don't forget to buy charcoal. Traveling time to the falls from Puerto Princesa City is about 2.5 hours for a distance of 95kms. Stop at the Aborlan market on the way for a snack or second breakfast.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Transport around Palawan

There are no flights around Palawan except from Puerto Princesa to Coron. The main methods of transport are jeepney, bus, van, hire van (with driver), rental motorbike or boat.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Jeepneys, Buses and Vans - Jeepneys are the cheapest way to travel, and for the adventurous types, you can sit on the roof if you don't want to be squashed in like a sardine.. The buses and vans are also usually packed to capacity but the vans have the advantage of being air-conditioned and are faster as they do not stop to pickup/drop-off people and cargo. Vans are slightly more expensive than buses or jeeps. None of the buses are air-conditioned so you can get quite dusty during the dry months.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Hire Car - The only company I know of in Palawan that rents cars without a driver is Pitstop Bike and Car Rental. They are based in El Nido but you can also pick up from Puerto Princesa. All their vehicles are 4-wheel-drive.

Hire car or van with driver - Probably the best ways to see Palawan is to rent a van or 4-wheel-drive with driver. You can rent a vehicle just to pick you up from the airport and take you to your destination, or you can rent it for your whole Palawan tour, including all overnights. Hiring a vehicle for your whole tour opens up a range of options which would be difficult to do with public transport. It is not expensive - you will pay about P20 per km plus P1500 a day. Therefore, a 6 day tour of Palawan may cost P20,000. Divide that by 4 to 10 people and it could be a very affordable way to travel. If you want to go off the beaten track a little, it is better that your van is a 4-wheel-drive. Note that if you want to hire a vehicle for a one way trip only, you will still need to pay for the return journey as there is very little chance of the driver getting passengers for it.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Motorbike Hire - There are lots of motorbike rental places in Puerto Princesa City, El Nido and Coron. Prices vary from about P600 to P1000 a day, depending on engine size and quality. Discounts are usually available for long term rental. Be sure to get a mechanically sound motorbike if you intend to go on a long journey, especially if you have a pillion passenger.

The Backpacker Route – a Two Week Itinerary for Mid November to May End

You can play around with the schedule but this is the Palawan tour that I recommend. It can also be done in reverse, of course. If you are going by private hire car or rental motorbike, the itinerary is the same but the travel from Sabang to Port Barton and to El Nido would be done by road and not by boat.

1 – Puerto Princesa – 1 night – Fly Manila to Puerto Princesa (1 hour) – consider two nights if you are not returning via Puerto Princesa.

2 – Sabang (Underground River) – 2 nights – go by jeepney from Puerto Princesa early in the morning (3 hours)

3 – Port Barton – 3 to 5 nights and consider a night or two at nearby Cacnipa Island – go by boat from Sabang to Port Barton (3 hours)

4 – El Nido – 3 to 5 nights – go by boat from Port Barton to El Nido (4 hours)

5 option A – Taytay – 1 to 3 nights. By Bus from El Nido (2 hours max). By bus to Puerto Princesa (5 hours), stay 1 to 2 nights - End of Palawan tour – fly to Manila or go onward

5 option B – Coron – 2 to 3 nights - El Nido to Coron by boat (7 hours) – End of Palawan tour  - Fly to Manila or go onward

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Money, Foreign Currency Exchange, Credit Cards and ATM's.

ATMs - The only ATM machines in Palawan that take international cards are in Puerto Princesa. There are a couple of ATMs in Coron but they only accept Philippine cards. A wide range of ATM's can be found around the main entrance to NCCC, the largest supermarket and department store in Puerto Princesa. For international ATM cards, I always use the ATM from BPI (Bank of the Philippine Islands), the largest bank in the Philippines and I have never had a problem with them. The NCCC ATMs are best to use because there are often power outages in Puerto Princesa and NCCC has a backup generator while most banks do not.

Do not leave it until the last moment to withdraw your funds because the ATMs are sometimes all offline and you may not be able to continue on with your journey for lack of cash. The limit of the withdrawal is usually P10,000 per transaction, with a maximum of two withdrawals per day from the same bank. If you require lots more than that, you may need to do it over several days of from different banks. On one of my trips north I decided to get my money at the last moment from a BPI bank on the main highway out of Puerto Princesa. On one occasion, the power failed at the very moment I was waiting for the ATM to return my card and dispense my money. The ATM kept my card and did not dispense any money. It was early in the morning, so I had to wait for the bank to open to get my card back. My overseas bank credited the money back into my account, so there was only the hassle of it all.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Some foreigners find themselves in a bind when their international ATM cards will not work in the Philippines. That is usually because their bank's security has blocked access to cards in developing countries. You may need to let your bank know in advance that you will be traveling in the Philippines. I have never had this problem myself.

Foreign Currency Exchange - the best place to exchange your foreign notes is in a bank in Manila. BDO gives good rates. Outside of Manila you may have trouble cashing anything other than US$ and then with bad rates and large fees. Try Western Union, their rates may be the best you will get.

If you need money sent to you in Palawan, there are several of Western Union branches. I know there is one in Puerto Princesa and another in El Nido.

Credit Cards - Unless you are staying in a hotel or high end resort, don't expect to be able to pay by credit card anywhere for anything. Also expect to pay all credit card charges which may be as high as 7%. There will be no problems or extra charges for paying for flights with credit cards, as long as you do it through the airline booking office and not through an agent.

Hazards

Sandflies - Some of the beaches, especially Palawan, have sandflies. I have been bitten on the Palawan beaches of Sabang, Port Barton and El Nido. Their bites can lead to tropical ulcers, or worse, unless you treat them correctly. I am talking from personal experience. Read my section on Sandflies.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Malaria and Filariasis (Elephantiasis) - Malaria, and to a lesser degree, Filariasis, are problems in some parts of Palawan, especially during the rainy season. The worst areas are in Southern Palawan and generally in the jungles and the small villages. I have been assured many times by locals that there is no malaria in El Nido or Puerto Princesa City. I had heard of cases in Sabang and Port Barton some years ago but have been told that there have been no recent cases.

Malaria is transmitted by the Anopheles mosquito and it is considered endemic in Palawan. Recent efforts to control malaria have shown a progressive decrease in the number of cases diagnosed and treated. Unfortunately there is the emergence of resistant cases of malaria due to poor treatment practices of communities. The common practice within the communities is to self-medicate, resulting  in an incomplete use of antimalarial drugs combinations or the use of inadequate doses.

Dengue Fever - This is another mosquito borne disease that is sometimes fatal, especially for young children. It is widespread throughout Palawan so take the same precautions as with Malaria. For tourists the risks are very low, but a little bit of care will greatly improve the statistics of you not catching dengue.

Rabies - Rabies is endemic in Palawan and many other parts of the Philippines. If you are bitten by a dog or any other animal, make sure you go to the nearest clinic for advice and possibly a rabies shot. This is called a rabies post-exposure prophylaxis. It must be done within 10 days of the bite but immediately after would be better. The treatment is very successful, but left untreated, you would eventually die.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

Visa Extensions in Puerto Princesa City

Renewing your Philippines tourist visa or any other visa is easily done in the efficient and friendly Palawan field office of the Bureau of Immigration. You will normally be in and out within 15 minutes. It is possible to renew a week or so before the expiry date but they may consider doing it much earlier if you have a valid reason for it. Most tourists can repeatedly extend for up to a year after which you must leave the country. Tourists and businessmen get a 21 day visa on arrival and it is stamped in your passport when you first pass through immigration. No need to get a visa before going to the Philippines. You can get a first extension that will allow you to stay for up to 59 days; each extension after that is for 2 month periods.

The first extension costs P2,030 and after that it varies between about P3,000 and P4,000. It is not the same amount for each 2 month extension.

The visa requirements are simple. You need your passport, a single photo copy of your main passport page and one of the page with your entry stamp on it. If you have renewed before, also include a photocopy of the page with your last visa extension if it is not on the same page as the entry stamp. No photograph required. The single visa form you fill out is straight forward. The photocopies cannot be done at the immigration office so you must bring them with you. There is a place somewhere across the road from the office that does photocopies and there are many more on the main street in the city center.

(Philippines) –Travel to Palawan

If you have overstayed on your visa there is no problems renewing but there will be a penalty of (I think) P110 if you are over by a few days. Better to fix it up at the immigration office rather than at the airport. Don't panic if you find that you are over the visa limit; it often happens and there is no "heavy scene" as this is a common mistake. I have met tourists who obtained their Philippines visa in their home country and misinterpreted the length of stay. The visa might say that it is "valid for 3 months" but that only means that you must enter within the three months and not that you can stay for 3 months.

The immigration office is located on Rizal Avenue, just a little over 200 meters from the airport exit heading into town and on the other side of the road. The actual  office entrance is at the back of a building on the second floor. The dress code is as casual as you like, i.e. shorts, slippers and T-shirt, unlike the requirements in Manila. Open 5 days a week but not on public holidays. Closed for lunch between 12 and 1.

(Wiki Travel, Travel Philippines)

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(Cambodia) – Island hopping in Cambodia

Cambodia's south coast has more than 60 pristine tropical islands nestling in the sapphire waters of the Gulf of Thailand. Easily reached from the coastal centres of Sihanoukville, Kep and Koh Kong, they're largely undiscovered with tourism taking its first tentative steps. If you stick to the local or small ex-pat run concerns, the Cambodian islands offer everything from palm fringed deserted beaches, traditional village life to the peaceful beach shack living found in Thailand 20 years ago.

(Cambodia) - Koh Rong Island

(Cambodia) - Koh Ta Kiev Island

(Cambodia) - Koh Ta Kiev Island

Best for day trips from the mainland: Koh Ru

Approaching from Sihanoukville, the long gold beaches of Koh Ru (Bamboo Island) take the breath away. One of the first islands to capitalise on tourism, you might not be the only one on its two beaches, but you certainly won't be sharing with many. There's a small path through the middle of the island so you can hop between the two in only a few minutes should the crowds of 10 or so overwhelm you. If you decide you'd rather not drag yourself away at sundown, there are a few bungalows on both sides of the island, but it's better to reserve in advance as these can get booked up.

(Cambodia) - Koh Ru Island

Stay at: BimBamboo Bungalows, pretty turquoise painted bungalows on the beach (double rooms $12 (£8.65) a night) or Coaster bungalows (double rooms $10 a night). Koh Ru Bungalows on the south side have the added bonus of being quieter and it's the place to be for watching spectacular sunsets (double rooms $10 a night; bookings@barrusihanoukville.com).

(Cambodia) - Koh Ru Island - Bungalow

Getting there: Ana's travel agency in Sihanoukville will pick you up from your hotel ($15 for a day of island hopping including Koh Ru) or Coasters boat leaves every morning at 9.30am from Ochheuteal beach in Sihanoukville ($10 return to Koh Ru).

Best for diving and snorkelling: Koh Tang

The waters around the uninhabited Koh Tang island are known as the site of the infamous Mayagüez incident of 1975 in which the Khmer Rouge captured a US ship. They also offer world-class diving, unspoilt by crowds. Five hours from the mainland and best visited as part of a live-aboard trip, divers are rewarded with a stunning diversity of corals and rocky reef dives where you're likely to see barracudas, octopus and seahorses. Nearby Koh Prins has two wrecks to dive. If you don't fancy a live-aboard, head to Koh Rong Saloem, much closer to Sihanoukville. Here you'll dive with kingfish, moray eels and a wide variety of nudibranch. The island is pretty enough to warrant a few nights of post-dive chilling.

(Cambodia) - Koh Tang Island

Stay at: The sumptuous Lazy Beach (doubles rooms $25 a night) on Koh Rong Saloem for total relaxation or Eco Sea Dive has simple bungalows (double rooms $30 a night; +855 12 606646).

Getting there:  Several tour operators based in Sihanoukville offer overnight trips. Try the friendly Dive Shop which has a stunning new live-aboard boat or the long established Dive Cambodia (Full day trip with two dives costs about US$85 (GBP41 or Euro58).

Best for traditional village life: Koh Sdach

Koh Sdach (King's Island) is a bustling fishing community off the coast of Koh Kong on the Thai-Cambodian border. Mostly made up of Khmers and Vietnamese, the village is centred around the rickety wooden dock you have to hop on to from the ferry. You can wander around the ramshackle town made up of huts on stilts or sit and watch the fishermen head out to sea in their long tail boats - and then enjoy their catch at one of the restaurants in the town. There's also some great snorkelling from the beaches.

Stay at: Mean Chey Guesthouse (double rooms $5 a night; +855 011 788 852).

Getting there: The Koh Kong to Sihanoukville ferry costs $20 and leaves every morning at 8am, stopping halfway at Koh Sdach (departs Sihanoukville to Koh Kong at 1pm).

Best for beachside bungalows: Koh Tonsay

Only 20 minutes by boat from Kep, Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island) was Cambodia's premier resort in the 1920s, and is now inhabited by only half-a-dozen Khmer families who run the beach-side huts and restaurants. The two palm-fringed beaches both have shallow waters perfect for snorkelling and there's nothing more demanding to do all day but swing in your hammock with a cold beer. Generator electricity is available only between 6pm and 9pm, but that's all the better for listening to the night cicadas and gazing at the starry skies.

(Cambodia) - Koh Tonsay Island

Stay at: Nyan Voyet Mai bungalows (double rooms $5 a night; +855 (0)12 893 102). Guesthouses in Kep also arrange stays at the island, try Botanica Guesthouse (double rooms $10 a night) or the pleasant Kep Lodge (double rooms $30 a night).

Getting there:  Boats leave from Koh Tonsay pier in Kep for $10 return.

Best for a deserted island experience: Koh Rong

If you want to be literally the only person on the beach, then head to Koh Rong. Two-and-a-half hours by boat from Sihanoukville, it's arguably the most magnificent island off the coast. Dumbbell shaped with a dense jungle interior, Koh Rong is a pristine island rarely visited by other travellers. The beach on the southwest side is known as "Snowdrift Bay" and for good reason, its talcum-soft sand squeaks under foot and goes on for miles. There's no path to it, however, so get dropped off there or charter a boat from the fishing village where there's a shop to stock up on supplies.

(Cambodia) - Koh Rong Island

Stay at: There are no guesthouses on the island, so take a tent, torch and provisions.

Getting there: Charter a boat from Sihanoukville ($50-$80 depending on bargaining skills) or hitch a ride with a dive boat ($40).

(Cambodia) - Koh Rong Island

(Cambodia) - Koh Russei Island

(Guardian, Beach Cambodia)

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(India) – Temple Hopping in South India

Walking along the beach south of Madras, I saw what looked like a rainbow rising out of the palm trees. In fact it was one of South India's famous modern temples covered with radiant stone deities. Each one was painted in flame-red and sky-blue and sea-green and hues I couldn't possibly name. The colors were so fresh I could smell them -- the sweet odor of new paint mixing with the smoky scent of incense and salt spray from the Bay of Bengal. I seemed to hear them as well, but soon identified the sounds as the pounding of drums, the clanging of a brass bell, and the singsong chanting that accompanies Hindu prayer services.

(India) - Ashta Lakshmi Temple

The Ashta Lakshmi Temple in the Madras suburb of Besant Nager is not one of the huge, important landmarks listed in the guidebooks, but I like its smallness and accessibility. Joining a stream of local people, I climbed narrow stairways all over the facade, pausing to meet the life-size deities face to face. Vishnu, the preserver god, was appropriately regal. His consort, Lakshmi, goddess of love, beauty and prosperity, looked very glamorous - raven-haired Indian film actresses are often compared to her -- as she smiled from the wall of a second-story terrace. Worshipers touched her green sari and pressed jasmine petals into her hands. Their approach to the deity was relaxed, informal, personal.

South India is like that, I discovered in June, as I left the city and headed down the coast of Tamil Nadu state with a car and driver toward the city of Pondicherry. This round trip of 100 miles is one of the most pleasant short excursions in India. Theoretically it can be done in a day, since the roads are good, but I took three days so I could stop and explore along the way.

The suburbs south of Madras are modern and upscale, but on the shore behind the marble-fronted apartment blocks I strolled along rural village streets lined with houses made of woven coconut-frond mats. Chickens roosted on the sloping thatched roofs. Girls in saris sat on the ground sorting trays of dried fish like silver jewelry. The handle of a pump creaked up and down as women gathered to fill shiny metal water pots. I stepped aside as a small boy led a loping, curly-horned buffalo down the lane.

Between the houses I caught glimpses of the surf where turbaned fishermen were poling a catamaran out into the water. Men sat on the beach mending nylon nets that lay on the sand like clouds of blue mist. Everyone was busy washing or cooking or selling something, but no one was rushing. A constant buzz of conversation seemed to make every task a social occasion.

I'd rented a car and driver from a Madras hotel for about $100 a day. We drove 15 miles south to Dakshina Chitra, a remarkable living museum of architecture, crafts and folk art. On an expanse of 10 acres, beautiful old brick and wood merchants' houses, rescued from the wrecker's ball, have been moved and reassembled, complete with furniture, paintings, utensils and toys -- as if the inhabitants had just stepped out. The guide described the life style of the owners in such vivid detail that I began to feel like a house guest in another century.

The Madras Craft Foundation sponsors many demonstrations for visitors: weavers making silk saris, potters working in clay, folk dancers performing dance-dramas, musicians playing traditional instruments. A sixth-grade class crowded around a Foundation volunteer, V. K. Deveka, eager to see how she fed tufts of cotton into a portable spinning wheel. It was just like the one that Mahatma Gandhi turned as he spoke to his audiences, she told the kids.

One continuous palm-fringed beach stretches from Madras to Pondicherry, and around Mahabalipuram, the approximate midway point, are a number of beautiful seaside resorts. The quiet little town itself, popular with young tie-dyed travelers, is full of modest restaurants and tiny family-run lodges. At one, the friendly Danussi Cottage, I rented a spotless room and a cot that I moved onto the roof so as to sleep under the stars and watch the sun rise over the bay.

The next morning I swam at the beach beside Mahabalipuram's Shore Temple, a delicate, seventh-century stone building so worn away by salt spray that it resembles a filigreed sand castle. Even older are the carvings on one enormous boulder that depict the hero Arjuna and a procession of animals from Indian folklore. The sound of chisels striking stone accompanied my walk around the town's sandy lanes. Sculptors in open sheds were busy carving images of deities. I bought an elephant-headed Ganesh that fitted into the palm of my hand; I could have bought a flute-playing Krishna that would have filled my living room.

Heading south again, I was enveloped by South India's greenness -- plantations of shaggy-headed coconut palms and irrigated rice paddies gleaming in the sunshine. The streets of one town ran blue as a stream of girls in blue saris poured out the door of a convent school. A man lovingly washed a motorcycle half-submerged in a stream. I left the car and walked into a field to get a close look at one of the equestrian terra cotta statues that potters make to guard their villages. This local folk-god seated on his white-painted steed wore a green sarong, a gold crown and a magnificent handlebar mustache.

An hour later we were driving into Pondicherry, where I had booked a room at a guesthouse. The city, an enclave that remained under French rule for nearly a decade after the British left India in 1947, retains some of the flavor of its colonial years in the streets east of the central canal. I rented a bicycle and pedaled past houses with graceful wrought-iron balconies, carved wooden trim below the slopes of tile roofs, and walls in pastel shades of aquamarine, amber and puce. A miniature Arc de Triomphe nestled beneath the palm trees in a park where families sat on the grass eating pakoras (spicy fried snacks) and Popsicles. Just off this square, the Pondicherry Museum was full of musty treasures: graceful Louis-something furniture, ancient Indian coins, endearingly awful paintings, fossils, a palanquin, and a picture of a tiger made entirely of painted noodles.

I inadvertently entered a main thoroughfare on my bicycle and found myself trapped in one of India's famous urban traffic crushes. A young policewoman in a white uniform and red beret casually raised her arm, and a thousand or so huge diesel trucks, packed buses, smoking cars, kamikaze motorcycles, plodding bullock carts and wobbly bicycles all screeched to a halt. A graceful wave of her hand released another thousand insane vehicles that honked, snorted, growled, rumbled, roared past the traffic island. Then it was our turn to surge forward. But I wobbled off down a side street into the city's botanical gardens, where nothing fiercer than a fallen coconut confronted me on the road.

Back in the colonial district, there were several attractive churches, including one dating from 1770. My favorite was a Sacred Heart Church built in 1902 that looked like a castellated cake covered in gleaming vanilla frosting with cheerful raspberry stripes and lime-green trim. Inside, the brightly painted images of saints bore more than a passing resemblance to the deities I had met at the Ashta Lakshmi Temple.

Along the seafront is a long, breezy promenade where Pondicherrians go to socialize in the evenings. At the south end is the Park Guest House where the large, comfortable rooms have balconies overlooking a flower garden. I went to sleep to the fluttering of fruit bats swooping past my window. On the back of the door was a notice that cautioned me not to smoke, consume alcohol, or invite a guest to my room. The edict was enforced by a big photograph over the bed: a white-bearded Indian man and an elderly European woman whose steady glare said ''Don't even think about it!''

These folks were Sri Aurobindo, a revered spiritual leader, and his partner, a French artist who became known as The Mother. In the 1920's they founded a noted ashram, which now owns the Guest House and other Pondicherry property. After Sri Aurobindo died, The Mother started Auroville, a 12-square-mile experiment in international living that I visited six miles north of the city.

European counter-culturalists moved to Auroville during the 1960's and the place prospered as an agricultural commune. But when The Mother died at the age of 97 in 1973, hostilities broke out between the Auroville residents and the ashram's hierarchy. One Aurovillian, insisting that I not reveal his name, told me that during this period the French devotees forcibly expelled Indian families, including his own, and consigned ''corrupt'' books at his school to a bonfire. Since that time the commune and the ashram have each preferred to ignore the other's existence.

Surrounding Auroville's residences is a beautiful park with tropical plants imported from many countries. The spiritual aura of the place began to waft over me -- until I saw, rising up out of the foliage, the Matrimandir. This three-story cement globe, pockmarked with hundreds of portholes, rests in an artificial crater like a giant bathysphere dropped from Mars. The whole edifice was empty, I discovered, except for one dark, chilly, empty meditation room containing an empty glass globe on a pedestal. Now I'm glad to have seen this -- possibly the most ludicrous building in the history of architecture -- but at the time it inspired me to beat a fast retreat to the world outside the commune.

On my way back to Madras, my spirits were lifted again at the Golden Sands Beach Resort, a family theme park built around a Pop version of Indian culture and religion. Everywhere I walked I saw statues of lions and elephants and superhero-like gods from Hindu folk tales that every Indian child knows by heart. Crossing a drawbridge over a moat, kids crowded through a miniature Mogul fort. Parents strolled around a big flower garden planted in the shape of India, each state outlined in hedgerows.

I passed walls where a series of painted bas-reliefs depicted the evolution of transportation (from bullock cart to Ambassador -- an Indian-manufactured car) and the evolution of man (from an ape to a yuppie with sunglasses and tennis racket). Customers at the snack bar were entertained by costumed folk dancers. Statue-Man, a mime in demon's garb, delighted giggling children when he suddenly brandished his cardboard sword at them. A Ferris wheel revolved against the pink twilight sky.

Finally I joined the families relaxing on the beach. Fully dressed, they sat on the sand and stared out at the Bay of Bengal. ''So peaceful here!'' one father murmured to me, smiling. Indian cities are among the most congested on earth; I could understand why the people viewed all this vast open space with a kind of reverence. Evening crowds were beginning to fill the park behind me, but I was content where I was, listening to the quiet voices and the waves splashing against the sand.

Falling into the rhythm of life along the Bay of Bengal

Getting There

Many airlines fly from New York to Madras, including T.W.A., Delta, Lufthansa, British Airways and Air-India. The round-trip fare is about $1,600, depending on season and length of stay, but discount fares can go as low as $1,000.

Car Rentals

Most Madras hotels can arrange a government-approved car and driver. A three-day trip from the Connemara Hotel and back will cost $337, including the driver's allowance and gasoline. There are also independent rental agencies, like Gangai Cabs, (44) 641-2324, and Globe Tours (44) 641-4224. (The country code for India is 91.) Self-drive cars are available for a very large deposit, but I don't recommend visitors' driving, because traffic can be scary in and near cities, especially at night, when it's wise to stay off the road even with a driver.

Be prepared to pay for all the driver's meals and tea. Guidebooks may say tipping is unnecessary, but drivers' wages are low and tips are much appreciated. Most drivers prefer to sleep overnight in the car to guard against theft. I prefer the big, bulky Indian-made Ambassador sedans, which are undaunted by potholes and can be repaired anywhere.

Where to Stay

MADRAS : The city's oldest hotel (1875) is the Connemara, on Binny Road, (44) 852-0123, fax (44) 852-3361. A Taj Group hotel, it is very comfortable without being ostentatious and has a pool, restaurants, shops and a bar. It is also home to the Giggles Bookshop, containing every new book in print about India, run for 22 years by Ms. Nalini Chettur, beloved by all Madras writers and intellectuals. A double is $165 a night plus 30 percent tax in the off season (May through August) with fridge, TV and a basket of mangoes included.

By the way, Madras is also -- and increasingly -- known as Chennai, its ancient Tamil name.

MAHABALIPURAM : I enjoyed staying at Danussi Cottage, 47 Thirukulam Street, (4113) 42738, which has a guest book crammed with seven years' worth of wildly enthusiastic travelers' testimonials. A single costs only $2.50 a night, a double $3.

Two fancier places I looked at were the Hotel Tamil Nadu Beach Resort, (4113) 2235, where doubles are $12.50, and the luxurious Temple Bay Ashok Beach Resort, (4113) 65160, where air-conditioned doubles are $47.

PONDICHERRY : I stayed on Goubert Avenue at the Park Guest House, right on the Bay of Bengal, (413) 34412. Simple and spotless, it is run by the Aurobindo Society, and is a very good value at $9 a night, despite its ban on smoke, booze and room guests. Excellent breakfast and lunch cost 95 cents each. Free bicycles are available.

The Hotel Pondicherry Ashok, (413) 24-0468, a Portuguese villa-style hotel, is seven miles north of the city on the coast road and has a lovely beach. Rooms are $28 to $34.

Right in Pondicherry is the Hotel Mass, at Maraimamalai Adiagal Salai, (413) 37221, where deluxe rooms cost $13 to $15.

Where to Eat

Meals at fancy hotels in the Mahabalipuram area, like the Temple Bay Ashok Beach Resort mentioned above, are overpriced but tasty and served in attractive settings.

In Pondicherry I liked Seagulls Restaurant, 19 Dumas Street, which has a bar and a second-story open-air dining area overlooking the ocean. A big Indian dinner -- appetizers, rice, curry, dahl, vegetables -- cost me $5.

Although primarily a crafts and cultural center, between Madras and Mahabalipuram, Dakshina Chitra does make traditional meals available with advance reservations. Travelers should call its Madras office, (44) 491-8943, to find out what programs are being offered. Admission prices vary, depending on whether you are going for a meal, a performance, or just a tour of the buildings.

Theme Park

Golden Sands Beach Resort, a theme park in Mahabalipuram, (4113) 42245, charges 78 cents admission, which includes a complimentary snack. The resort has a swimming pool, and beach cottages rent for $31 a night.

Information

The Tamil Nadu Government Tourist Office in Madras is at 143 Anna Salai, (44) 84-0752. Visitors can book bus tours there and arrange to stay at the reasonably priced state-run hotels.

The Government of India Tourist Office nearby, at 154 Anna Salai, (44) 852-4295, has a reputation for being helpful. The American Express office is at Spencer's Plaza on Anna Salai at Binny Road, (44) 852-3628.

(New York  Times – November 30, 1997)

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(Myanmar) – A dream to the Buddhistic Region

Buddhism in Myanmar is predominantly of the Theravada tradition or the southern school. About 89% of Myanmar practices Buddhism. Adherents are most likely found among the dominant ethnic Bamar (or Burmans), Shan, Rakhine (Arakanese), Mon, Karen, and Chinese who are well integrated into Burmese society. Among ethnic Bamar, Theravada Buddhism is practised often in conjunction with nat worship. Monks, collectively known as the Sangha are venerated members of Burmese society.

(Myanmar) – A dream to the Buddhistic Region

The importance of Buddhism in the history of Myanmar is evident from a landscape dominated by pagodas which is why the country is often called "the land of pagodas." The Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon is steeped in myth and legend, and represents the people's faith who have worshipped there for generations. Every village in Myanmar has a pagoda and a monastery, the traditional places for worship and education.

Besides, Myanmar also offers a variety of natural beauties and historical artifacts such as dazzling waterfalls, graceful lakes, enchanting caves, sparkling beaches, reverines, and the unique cultures of different ethnic groups in addition to the thousand year old golden pagodas scattered around Burma, especially in Bagan and Mandalay.

(Myanmar) – A dream to the Buddhistic Region

The people of Myanmar can be called Burman or Burmese. Burmese people are friendly, pleasant, and charming. According to our clients, one of Myanmar's most appealing perspectives is its people. Burmese people are kind and willing to help. One lovely feature of Burmese people is their hospitality and welcoming heart towards all guests. When they meet foreigners, they do not think how to make money out of them, but how they can be of help if asked. This is how Burma is different from other countries.

"MIN GA LA BA", the lovely traditional greeting way of Myanmar can be used to greet anyone at anytime of the day during your visit. It is the equivalent of "Sawasdee" in Thai. Another Burmese word you may need to know while your visit is KYAY ZU BE, pronounced JayZuBe means "Thank you".

(Myanmar) – A dream to the Buddhistic Region

In Myanmar, the Ayarwaddy River flows its way southward from the confluence of two small rivers in Kachin state in northern Myanmar. It is both the lifeblood and soul of Burma. Along the banks stand many ancient capitals of Burmese kings where existing historic monuments reveal their glorious greatness. Bagan, located in the heart of Myanmar consists of thousands of ancient pagodas, is recognized as one of the miraculous wonders of the world. It presents the rich cultural heritage of Burma and makes Burma one of the archaeological treasure houses in Asia and the world.

(Myanmar) – A dream to the Buddhistic Region

The infrastructure in Burma is now more developed currently, so travel to Myanmar is no longer an adventurous journey. Myanmar is one of the safest tour destinations in Asia opening her doors and stretching out her hands welcoming travelers around the world to visit Burma.

Attractions

Yangon

Yangon, the commercial capital, is the main gateway to Myanmar. Evergreen and cool with lush tropical trees, shady parks and beautiful lakes, Yangon has earned the name of "The Garden City of the East". Yangon was founded by King Alaungpaya on the site of a small settlement called Dagon when he conquered Lower Myanmar in 1755.

(Philippines) - Myanmar - Yangoon Karaweik Palace on Kandawgyi Lake

When you visit Yangon, visiting Shwedagon Pagoda is a must. It is one of the most famous and interesting place to visit in Yangon. Sule Pagoda lies in the center of Yangon and can be easily visited. Other than pagodas, museums such as National Museum, Bogyoke Museum and Gems Museum display historical events of Myanmar.

Bagan

The main tourist destination in Myanmar is Bagan, capital of the first Myanmar Empire; one of the richest archaeological sites in South-east Asia. Situated on the eastern bank of the Ayeyawaddy River. The Magic of Bagan has inspired visitors to Myanmar for nearly 1000 years.

(Philippines) - Myanmar - Bagan

Bagan is full of ancient architecture and ruins. Temples, pagodas, monuments, stone scripts, votive tablets, wall paintings, mural paintings, stuccos carvings can be found in many places in Bagan. The main 4 places to visit are Shwezigon, Ananda, Dhammayangyi and Thabbyinnyu Pagodas.

(Philippines) - Myanmar - Bagan

Inle Lake

Inle is a vast lake located in the heart of Shan State which shares borders with Thai & Laos. And it climbs up to over 900 metres above sea level and outrageously beautiful. Inle Lake is located in the mountains so it is cooler than other areas. More than 30 hill tribes are living in the mountains.

(Philippines) - Myanmar - Inle Lake

Phaungdawoo Pagoda is an amazing floating pagoda in the Inle Lake. The Phaungdawoo Pagoda festival, the boat racing competition are great experiences at such time to visit for tourist. The floating markets and the lifestyles of the Inthars are also a total different environment for visitors.

Ngapali Beach

It is famous for its natural and unspotted beauty up to this day. The beach stretches about 3 km with soft white sand fringed by coconut palms. Ngapali Beach is one of the loveliest places in Myanmar.

(Philippines) - Myanmar - Ngapali Beach

Mandalay

Mandalay is the second largest city in Myanmar and was established in 1857. It lies on the east bank of the Ayeyarwaddy River and in the upper part of Myanmar. Mandalay has the Royal Palace of the last Konbaung Dynasty. Mandalay inherits many cultural heritage from the ancient Myanmar Kingdoms and beautiful places to visit.

(Philippines) - Myanmar - Mandalay

Mandalay consist of five main townships namely Aung Myay Thar Zan, Chan Aye Thar Zan, Mahar Aung Myay, Chan Mya Tharzi and Pyigyi Tagun Townships. Mandalay Hill is a popular destination to visit while you are in Mandalay. The beautiful scene of the whole city can be seen from the hill. Royal Palace, Sanda Muni and Shwenandaw Monastery are a few more.

Mrauk U

Largely unknown to the Western world for much of its tur­bulent history, Rakhine played a pivotal role in the exchange of cultures and religions between India and Southeast Asia. For over a thousand years the region which now forms the Rakhine State, Myanmar was an independent state whose rich history is only slowly being paid the attention it deserves.

(Philippines) - Myanmar - Mrauk U

Shittthaung Pagodas, Ananda Sandra Pillar, Andaw Thein temple, Yadanarpon temple, Dukkanthein or Htoke Kan Thein, Koe Thaung Pagodas, Pitakataik (or) the Library, Five Victory Pagodas, Palace Site, the ancient ruins of Mrauk U period, Mrauk U Museum showing information about the ancient Rakhine eras are the main places to visit in Mrauk U.

(Philippines) - Myanmar - Mrauk U

Ngwe Saung Beach

Ngwe Saung Beach Resort, opened in the year 2,000, is one of the loveliest and most pleasant beach resorts in Myanmar. Located in the Ayeyarwady Division, some 48 kilometres from the town of Pathein, Ngwe Saung, with a beach frontage on the Bay of Bengal with its clear blue waters, its white crested waves, sandy beaches and unspoiled and pollution-free natural surroundings, is indeed one of the best places to select for a holiday interlude of rest and relaxation.

Nay Pyi Taw

Nay Pyi Taw is the administrative capital of the Union of Myanmar. Centrally located, it is 391 km from Yangon and 302 km from Mandalay, being easily accessible from all parts of the Union.

(Philippines) - Myanmar - Nay Pyi Taw

(Facebook, Buddhis travel, Travel Myanmar, Myanmar Travel Information)

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